I wanted to know what those reading this board think of:
GIGABYTE GN-B49G-WPEAG Wireless Router & kit - Retail

Any thoughts on this wirelss router and thoughts on wireless security?

I wanted to ask for thoughts on "the best" wireless setup for security and speed. Also, will wireless slow down your connection speed and would that matter?

How easy is it to pair one companies router with another companies card?

I think wireless is something like 11 mb nowadays, which will probably be fine. Just make sure you're getting the 11MB hardware. The older hardware was much, much slower. However, hard-wired its usually 100MB for the cheap stuff, 1GB for the expensive stuff. A typical speed for my cable connection is over 250mb, I believe. So depending on what you are doing there will be some slow down. But keep in mind, people still do things over the telephone at 56kb (is that the max modem speed still?) so you're still way ahead of the game.

Just some quick numbers to put things in perspective:
b/s = mega bits per second
802.11b (wireless): 11 Mb/s
802.11g (wireless): 54 Mb/s
Cable modem: 5 Mb/s (maximum under ideal conditions. Most users get 2 or less)
ADSL: 0.4 - 6 Mb/s depending on many factors

You can saturate a wireless connection doing a large file transfer between two fast machines on the same network. If you are connected to the internet, the wireless connection is almost never the limiting factor.

As for security, I recommend not broadcasting your SSID to avoid wardrivers. Of course, you want to use an encryption key. Most people use WEP which is better than nothing. Since I do a lot of Mac/Windows networking, I've found it easier to just use straight hex keys instead of passphrases. If you use a 64bit key, a phone number makes an easy to use 10 digit number which works perfectly for WEP. If you don't have people coming over to use your wireless network, I'd also recommend MAC address filtering.

As long as both the router and wireless adapter both conform to the same spec, I've never had a problem making the two connect. That with over 20 wireless installations under my belt. 802.11g is backwards compatible with 802.11b but I would highly recommend that all your gear is 802.11g for the extra bandwidth. It makes a big difference when transferring files between machines.

I don't know anything about your particular router. I've usually buy what's cheap. Fry's had the D-Link router I'm using for $7 after rebates which is hard to beat. I'd avoid using PCMCIA cards if you can. The USB adapter seem to have much better range and are generally cheaper. I don't like Linksys routers as every one (total of 5 so far) that I've had to install has had problems that required replacing. YMMV.

Your numbers are a bit skewed. Wireless is just standard Ethernet without wires. You can't compare a wireless network with a Cable or DSL modem. They are completely different when you're taking on the grounds of a home network.

You need to compare wireless to a standard wired network; 54 Mb/s vs 100 Mb/s cables (cables can hit 1000 now with the right nic).

You're still going to be connecting your Wireless router to a cable or DSL modem. Internal wireless is only good for computers that are model or so far out of the way you can't reach them with cables. Other than that, I *highly* recommend keeping your network cabled. Both for security reasons and speed benefits.

This <a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0002WPSFI/ref%3Dnosim/fatwalletcom/104-5565083-5878339">3Com</a> model was the one I was considering, it's $77 with a $60 rebate (<a href="http://www.provantage.com/103comrouter.pdf">pdf</a>), bringing it down to around $17 shipped. I like 3Com as a whole, they make good stuff.

If you're considering a wireless network, you really need to think about why you want to go wireless. If you can't run cable, if you mostly use notebooks or PDAs, or have other devices that don't need the speed and steady connection that a wired network can provide. The security question isn't that big of an issue any more - most (and I stress "most") wireless routers come preconfigured in a secure mode. You actually have to run through the setup wizard to turn off the authentication mode.

I plan on getting a wireless router for my TiVo and XBox Live. While I use my notebook semi-frequently, it's usually at my desk so I just use the hard wired connection at that point.

As for the Gigabyte model you're asking about specifically weoden, I haven't heard too many people using Gigabyte models - most are using DLink or Linksys. And while neither one of those is perfect, I've worked with them enough to know their flaws (which is sometimes as good). Just keep in mind that if you get a 802.11g router and have devices that use the 802.11b format, it may slow the entire router down (even if the router states that it's backwards compatible).

Your numbers are a bit skewed. Wireless is just standard Ethernet without wires. You can't compare a wireless network with a Cable or DSL modem. They are completely different when you're taking on the grounds of a home network.

You need to compare wireless to a standard wired network; 54 Mb/s vs 100 Mb/s cables (cables can hit 1000 now with the right nic).

You're still going to be connecting your Wireless router to a cable or DSL modem. Internal wireless is only good for computers that are model or so far out of the way you can't reach them with cables. Other than that, I *highly* recommend keeping your network cabled. Both for security reasons and speed benefits.

Comcast cable internet service seems to provide service at 3~4mbps down. Going over that means an internal network which I am not interested in doing for my personal use and I do not want to offer an network hub for the entire neighborhood. :D

Last updated on 7/24/2005

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I looked up cat 5 & 6 and here is the link:


and some good quotes are:

http://www.blackbox.com/tech_docs/tech_overviews/cat5_beyond.html
The limits of Category 5.
Category 5 (CAT5) cabling is good, solid cable for 100-Mbps LANs. The Category 5 standard has been around since 1991, so it’s well established. You’ll find existing Category 5 installations everywhere. What can Category 5 cable do, and what can’t it do?

http://www.tiaonline.org/standards/category6/cat6_for_search_engine.htm
I was under the impression that Cat 6 could run 1000 Mbps out to 295 feet. That being the case, why can't we run 100 Mbps beyond 295 feet if the Cat 6 specifications provide for better performance? Is there a distance matrix for Cat?

100 Mbps will have the same constraints as 1000 Mbps or even worse due to the quality of the electronics. The 2 volt nominal signal for both drops away due to signal strength past 295 feet in the link, which then allows for a further 33 feet for patching and cross connecting. 10BaseT uses a 5-volt nominal signal that can support further distances more frequently, but it still comes down to the quality of the transceivers. For example, just because port 1 in a switch can support a 110% of the recommended length for a particular protocol doesn't mean that port 2 will. You can have great noise reduction, but if your signal strength isn't sufficient any extended length support is lost. The problem network administrators face is that they don't know which ports have the best signal strength to support longer than standard runs. Cycling back to 10BaseT half duplex is the safest bet for such circumstances, but then not only slows the speed, but introduces localized collisions and in many cases CRC/FCS errors.

The use of a repeater/hub/switch can be implemented to support extended runs at the end of the link. This will then allow for further extension, but add an additional hop and latency. As extended runs are typically the exception rather than the rule, this solution will ensure full speed is supported, but will limit the amount of network management on the drops extended, without SNMP at the repeater.

It is also important to check the full length of the cable run to be sure that there is not interference being introduced such as a cable sitting on top of a fluorescent light or having sheaths cut. Consult the manufacturer for specific warranty provisions that may be applicable.

http://www.mosstele.com/cat5.htm
A Closer Look at Gigabit Ethernet

1000BASE-T is full duplex, but unlike 100BASE-T, it uses all four pairs in the cable simultaneously. Each pair is responsible for supporting 250 Mbps of information. Pulse Amplitude Modulation (PAM-5) with 4-level signaling is used to lower the channel bandwidth requirement to 125 MHz, though the maximum power density is well under 100 MHz. This is why it can be run on 100 MHz-rated cabling.

1000BASE-T requires that the cabling meet some tough criteria:

a) Signals must arrive at the far end strong enough to have survived attenuation effects

b) Noise sources cannot create confusion at the receiver

c) Signals sent from one end on all four pairs must arrive at the far end at roughly the same time


So, 1 gbs is not really what I am looking for. I do not even think I would want to build that kind of system even if I had 3 or 4 users. I suppose if I had a full T1 coming in I would want something like that.

PS thanks for the comments.

Going over that means an internal network which I am not interested in doing for my personal use and I do not want to offer an network hub for the entire neighborhood.
You lost me on something here. For one, Comcast is just your connection to the internet. You can very well block anybody form accessing your computer through the Comcast connection. Just put a router between your modem and your network. It's not going to "open" you up to the rest of the Comcast network. Cable is broadcast, but it's not broadcast to the point where somebody can jump onto your wired router.

Secontly, since you don't want to provide a hub for your entire neighboorhood, all the more reason to use a standard Cat5 network at home. Reason being is that unless you know how to *properly* secure your Wireless router, you *will* be open as a public node open for anybody within a ~100 foot radious (or more).

There are documents online that can teach you enough about creating a secure enough wireless modem network. I just want to make sure you err on the side of caution when attempting something you're not too familar with. Wireless hacking is becoming *extremely* common these days. Especially for entight neighborhoods (apt complexes, etc). Shoot, I can start up my laptop and easily locate at least 3 publicly announced wireless networks just from my apartment. I've even successfully connected to one of them with absolutely no effort.

If you're at an apartment complex I wouldn't even attempt it. At home the range is so bad on those things as long as you trust your next door neighbors you might be able to get away with it.

Wireless is just ugh. I wouldn't plan on playing any FPS games unless your sitting right next to your router, but in that case you might just as well use a cable. I have a wireless router, and really all it's good for is surfing the net.

http://www.tomsnetworking.com/Sections-article118.php <--- cracking WEP and some security ideas. If it's your only option.

*edit* Oh, if you have a 2.4ghz phone they will clash.

I have a wireless router, and really all it's good for is surfing the net.
I wouldn't quite say that. I use 802.11b wireless (11Mbps) as our computers are spread over several rooms, and play WoW, CoH, and other MMOGs just fine on it. I haven't tried first person shooters, though.

It's tricky to set up (try to get line of sight or close to it, adjust the antennas correctly, get a good channel, turn on encryption, etc), but once you have it running it works pretty well. I can get the same data transfer rate as the cable modem itself has, which is fine for me. Ping time is pretty quick (150ms on CoH on the other PC right now).

Line of Sight isn't required for Wireless. Just make sure you don't have Lead walls. ;)

If you do go wireless, I would suggest getting a directional antenna, depending on where you're setting it up. This will allow you to broadcast your single into a single direction, instead of a full 360 scope with the default antennas. If you do have problems with signals, you can get signal boosters designed to increase it for them more obscure rooms. However, I do believe they tend to slow down your signal reception time since it is an intercepter/rebroadcaster.

The best option would be just to wire up your house. :D

My wireless router is downstairs from my home office. I use a Wireless G network to connect. In my office I have a Wireless switch and everything in the office is connected to that by cable. My media center PC is downstairs, but my media center extender is upstairs, so It uses my wireless network.

I stream live TV while playing net games all the time with no problem over my wi fi. The speed of wifi is slower than ethernet, but, very few consumer routers support gigabit and are usually more expensive than a basic 11g router. When copying files over wifi, it's not much worse than the average cabled network unless they are huge files. MP3's, office docs, etc will all copy plenty fast over them. The only time I cringe is when I copy recorded tv shows from one machine to another. But, those files start at 1.7 GB and go up from there.

Just be aware that if someone really wants to get into your wifi network, they probably can, if they have the skills.

Changing your SSID, Turning off SSID broadcasting, Using WPA encryption, and limiting access to your network based on MAC addresses will stop most poeple from using your network.

I use all of those precautions plus, my house is far enough away from neighbors to aviod problems. People would have to drive up to the house with a laptop to hack my network.

Line of Sight isn't required for Wireless. Just make sure you don't have Lead walls. ;)

If you do go wireless, I would suggest getting a directional antenna, depending on where you're setting it up. This will allow you to broadcast your single into a single direction, instead of a full 360 scope with the default antennas. If you do have problems with signals, you can get signal boosters designed to increase it for them more obscure rooms. However, I do believe they tend to slow down your signal reception time since it is an intercepter/rebroadcaster.

The best option would be just to wire up your house. :D

We probably have lead walls then, or at least one lead wall (or something else in the way). ;) If one room, and it's just that room, loses line of sight, its signal quality drops like 50%.

We probably have lead walls then, or at least one lead wall (or something else in the way). ;) If one room, and it's just that room, loses line of sight, its signal quality drops like 50%.

If your home is relatively new, you may have metal studding which would act as good shielding.

I always wondered if the chicken wire they use on houses acts like a sort of Faraday cage. But I suppose its really only on the outside, which they attach the stucco to.

i prefer wired to wireless. Then again... the black helicopters are coming to get me too =p